Ault, Colorado

Insulation in Ault, Colorado

Almost a third of Ault predates 1940. That is the highest historic share of any town on this site, and it makes the work here both the most worthwhile and the most order-dependent.

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Quick reality check: If your home was built before 1990 and your bills keep climbing, you probably need this. If your home was built after 2010 and your bills are normal, you probably don't. Either way, we'll tell you straight.

Why does sequencing matter so much on Ault housing?

Ault's defining number is 32.1% — the share of its housing built before 1940. For comparison, Greeley is at 6.8%. More than half the town predates 1980 altogether, against a median build year of 1976.

Pre-1940 construction predates insulation standards entirely. Many of these houses have little or nothing in the wall cavities and an attic that has accumulated whatever successive owners added. The upside is genuinely large. The catch is that houses of this age frequently carry two complications — original wiring and old attic materials — that determine the order of operations and, done wrong, cost real money.

Who in Ault benefits, and what has to happen first?

The 57.4% of Ault homes built before 1980 are all reasonable candidates, and the pre-1940 third is where the largest gaps sit.

Before any of it, two checks. Knob-and-tube wiring, common in pre-1950 construction, sheds heat and cannot be buried in insulation — a licensed electrician clears or replaces the live runs first, and the work gets inspected. Vermiculite in the attic — small pebbly granules rather than fluff — should be treated as asbestos-containing until laboratory testing proves otherwise, which means nobody disturbs it and abatement, if needed, is a separate licensed trade.

Neither is a reason not to do the work. Both are reasons to have somebody competent look before anyone quotes a schedule.

What does insulation work cost in Ault, and what does waiting cost?

Cost tracks scope, and scope tracks what the assessment finds — attic square footage, how far below target the existing material sits, whether anything has to come out first, and how much air sealing the ceiling plane needs. A number quoted before anyone has been in the attic is a negotiating position, not a price.

What can be stated precisely is the rebate side, because it is published. Atmos Energy rebates attic insulation at 75% of project cost up to $1,550 where existing insulation starts below R-20, wall insulation at 75% up to $1,075, and crawlspace or basement insulation at 75% up to $1,325. Air sealing is a separate flat $575 and requires a blower door test showing at least a 20% reduction in leakage. The application is due within 60 days of the work, and the installing contractor needs an applicable license — there is no registered-contractor list to navigate.

Atmos rebate amounts verified August 5, 2026 against Atmos Energy's Colorado residential rebate page. Atmos states amounts are subject to change and that rebates are available until funding is fully allocated — confirm current amounts before scoping work.

The cost of waiting is the part nobody itemises: every heating season an under-target attic runs, it is paying to warm the space above the ceiling. That is not an argument for urgency — it is an argument for getting the measurement, so the decision is made on numbers rather than on a season of guessing.

Sources

What the data says

According to the EPA, “Zonolite Attic Insulation, manufactured from vermiculite mined near Libby, Montana, may contain asbestos and should not be disturbed without professional assessment.”

According to the Atmos Energy, “Atmos Energy rebates residential attic insulation at 75% of project cost up to $1,550 where the starting R-value is less than R-20.”

According to the Building Performance Institute, “BPI-certified energy auditors use blower door testing to measure air infiltration in CFM50, with most pre-1990 homes registering 2-4x the leakage of modern construction.”

Take the next step

Old house, and unsure what is up there?

The free assessment tells you what is actually in the attic, whether wiring or old material has to be handled first, and what the work costs with the Atmos rebate applied. On Ault's older housing the sequencing answer is worth as much as the price.

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We never sell your info. By submitting, you agree to be contacted by a local insulation pro about your project.

We've Got It. Here's What Happens Next.

We've got your info and are routing it to a local pro. When they call, here's what to look for in the quote you receive: (1) R-value target — Greeley builds to the 2021 IECC, which puts attics at R-49 to R-60; anything less is under-spec. (2) Air sealing scope — insulation alone does nothing if air leaks aren't sealed first, and Atmos requires a blower door test to rebate it. (3) Rebate handling — ask who files the Atmos paperwork and confirm it goes in within 60 days of the install. (The federal IRA Section 25C tax credit ended December 31, 2025, and Colorado's HEAR program is closed. Atmos Energy's residential rebates are the primary insulation rebate stack for Greeley-area projects in 2026, and income-qualified households can get insulation work done at no cost through the state Weatherization Assistance Program.) (4) Removal scope — older homes often need old insulation removed before new install. If a quote skips all four, get another quote.

Frequently asked

What do Ault homeowners ask about insulation?

Is a hundred-year-old house even worth insulating?

Usually among the best candidates there is, precisely because it starts from so little. The qualifier is that the sequence has to be right — air sealing before insulation, electrical cleared before burying anything, moisture problems fixed before they get trapped. Done out of order, an old house is where money genuinely gets wasted, which is where the scepticism comes from.

What is knob-and-tube wiring and how do I know if I have it?

Early wiring, standard before roughly 1950, identifiable from the attic as ceramic knobs and tubes with cloth-covered wire running between them. It depends on open air to shed operating heat, so burying it in insulation creates a fire risk and violates code. If you can get a light into the attic you can often spot it yourself; an electrician confirms whether the runs are still live.

What does vermiculite look like and what do I do about it?

Small, lightweight, pebbly granules — gold to grey-brown, sometimes with a slight sheen — rather than fluffy fill or batts. If that is what is up there, leave it alone and get it lab-tested. Most pre-1990 vermiculite should be assumed asbestos-containing until testing says otherwise. Do not sweep it, vacuum it, or let an insulation crew move it.

Should I insulate the walls too, or just the attic?

Attic first, essentially always. It is the cheapest square footage, the largest single loss path, and the least invasive work. Walls in an old house are dense-pack blown through small access holes, which is real work with real patching, and it is worth doing only after the attic and air sealing are handled and the numbers still justify it.

Does the Atmos rebate cover this kind of house?

The rebate is aimed exactly at homes like these — 75% of attic insulation cost up to $1,550 where existing insulation starts below R-20, which pre-1940 housing comfortably does. Note that Atmos gas service is confirmed for some towns in this area and not formally confirmed for others, so verify your own service before counting on the rebate. Applications are due within 60 days of the work.

My Ault home was built after 2000 — is this page for me?

Less so. Roughly 28.6% of the town is post-2000 housing that started near current targets and carries none of the wiring or material complications above. If that is you and your bills are unremarkable, the case for a project is weak and a diagnostic visit is the sensible ceiling on what you spend.

Will insulating make an old house too tight?

It is a fair question and the answer is that air sealing, not insulation, is what changes tightness — and on a house of this age you would have to work very hard to overshoot. What does need attention is combustion safety: if you have atmospherically vented gas appliances, tightening the envelope changes their air supply, and that should be checked as part of the work rather than discovered afterwards.